Here are the first introductory steps to becoming a great surfer.
Step 1 : Have wonderful dreams of surfing + Get the coffee pot ready.
You must get enough sleep(Usually 4-6 hours) remember you have to wake up from 5:00a.m - 6:00a.m. for great morning waves. If you’re still a bit tired, make sure to have the coffee pot ready with a light roast grounds. Before you get out of bed visualize your self at the beach riding waves and surfing the break. Now that your up and have wiped the eye buggers away its time to check the surf report.
Step 2 : Check the surf report for High or Low tide
High Tide: This is when the water reaches its highest level and stops at high water causing tidal currents to cease this is also called slack tide. Low Tide: The sea level recedes exposing reef or referred to as table tops. Its period is about 12 hours and 25.2 minutes, exactly half a tidal lunar day. We are looking to catch the ocean when it is in the middle to get the gaining force of high tide and release of low tides.
Step 3 : Grab the Essentials: Water, Wax and Board
You need water to rinse your mouth for when you get out of the ocean. Bring your Wetsuit (3.2 mm Wetsuit will get you through summer, however 4.3 mm is recommended for most winter destinations) , towel , Bar of Sticky Bumps , relaxing music and a great attitude. DO NOT EAT A HEAVY BREAKFAST! try not to have anything filling, keep it light.
Step 4 : Go to your local break.
The surf report might tell you great waves, but go take a closer look. Things are not always as they seem due to local micro climates. Depending on wind and swell directions you might be glad you drove no more than a mile up the road. First timers avoid other surfers until you feel comfortable.
Step 5 : Get in the water and have fun.
Each time that you get in the water there are a few reminders that will keep you safe and calm. 1) Look to see where the break zone is so that you can paddle on the out skirt. 2) If you get caught in the break zone(5-7 ft wave), Do not duck dive with your board(If you are a beginner)! Throw it to the side and dive threw the wave. That's why you have on a leash. 3) Find a landmark on the shore to set yourself up with, the current can sweep you pretty fast if your not paying attention. 4) Don't forget to say hello to your neighbor in the water. 5) If you get in somebody's way or snake a wave on accident make sure to express a genuine apology (Make sure not to let it happen again because that's not cool).
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